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If you’ve never experienced a Paris canicule, it’s easy to underestimate it. Temperatures climb into the 90s or even over 100°F, and many apartments don’t have air conditioning. Those iconic zinc roofs in Paris that everyone loves? Beautiful until you realize you could literally fry an egg on them in the summer. Suddenly, that picturesque top-floor apartment doesn’t seem quite so picturesque.
What’s most surprising isn’t just how hot it gets, but how the heat lingers. After several days of high temperatures, the buildings and pavement hold onto the warmth, so even the mornings can feel unusually hot. During my first summer living in Paris, my husband and I inhabited a tiny seventh-floor studio with almost no airflow. I’ve learned a lot since then about how to navigate a heatwave in a country that doesn’t believe in ice cubes.
Here’s how to get some relief during the hottest days in Paris:
Stay Hydrated
- In Paris, you can find various types of public drinking fountains, from the iconic Wallaces to the newer designs offering sparkling water (yes, really!) and misters. Additionally, there’s a network of businesses in Paris that will fill up your water bottle for free. You can identify them by the blue “Ici, je choisis l’eau de Paris” sticker. Use this interactive map of free drinking water in Paris to see what options are nearby and open.
💦 Don’t forget your water bottle!
- We discovered hydration tablets at a French pharmacy after a particularly miserable day and have really noticed a difference when using them on hot days to help maintain electrolytes. The tubes are practical for travel, and the mixed fruit flavor (fruit des bois) is my favorite!
Where to Cool Down in Paris
- The city of Paris maintains a list of spots where you can cool down, known as les îlots de faîcheur. This includes parks with shade and/or water misters (brumisateurs), libraries with air conditioning, swimming pools and outdoor swimming areas (including in the Seine!), churches (often naturally cooler due to heavy stone architecture), etc.
- Spots in Paris with air conditioning include: museums (often climate controlled to protect artwork!), the Aquarium of Paris, malls, movie theaters, and… Starbucks. Grocery stores like Monoprix and Picard are excellent destinations. You may not need frozen vegetables, but you’ll probably appreciate standing next to them for a minute.
💡 Go to the one of the bigger museums that has a restaurant or café so you can linger a bit longer in the cool air.
- While you generally aren’t allowed to enter the many water basins found in Parisian parks, there is typically a tolérance during a canicule, particularly for young children. I promise to look the other way if you dip your toes in.
- During severe heatwaves, each arrondissement’s town hall has a room with air conditioning that is accessible to the public so that you can cool off for a bit. The best way to find out about any special local measures (like parks staying open late or installations of public misters) is to check your arrondissement’s town hall website or sign up for their email newsletter.
Getting Around During a Heatwave
- A mineral water spray can feel refreshing on your face, neck, and arms. Put a big one in your fridge or get smaller ones to throw in your bag. You can find spray cans in most pharmacies. Some grocery stores will have them in the refrigerated section, where they sell sandwiches and salads to go. I thought this was strange at first, but it’s ingenious!
- This misting sunscreen makes it easy to reapply protection over makeup when I’m already out and about. I keep it in my bag.
- Metro lines 1, 2, 5, 9, 11, 14 are fully air conditioned and some trains on line 4 are air conditioned. When crowded, even the air conditioned lines can get steamy and smelly. (Summer is not when the Paris métro is at its most glamorous.) Get a small handheld fan to keep yourself comfortable.
Keeping Your Apartment Cool
- Open up windows late in the evening and use a box fan to bring in cooler air. In the morning, close the windows, shutters, and curtains before the temperature starts going up to keep out as much sunlight and heat as possible. The main goal isn’t to cool your apartment… it’s to convince the heat to stay outside.
- Generally, you can’t install air conditioning in your Parisian apartment without permission from the landlord and/or building association. (Good luck with that!) The most practical option for the large and tall windows in Parisian apartments is to get a standing portable air conditioner that vents outside with a special window seal kit.
🌬️The configuration of our Parisian apartment is not ideal for air flow (think: long hallway and closed off rooms), so we use a powerful fan to spread the cool air love around.
- If you’re apartment hunting in Paris (or even just looking for an AirBnb), consider the orientation of the apartment. While an apartment facing due south (plein sud) benefits from fantastic luminosity throughout the entire day, it’s also at the greatest risk for overheating in the summer.
Heatwaves in Paris aren’t pleasant (and they seem to be getting worse), but they’re manageable once you know how the city works. After a couple of summers, you’ll probably end up with your own routine, and you’ll never look at a beautiful zinc rooftop quite the same way again.
What are your best tips for staying cool in Paris during a heatwave? How do you deal with the heat? Know any spots with air conditioning?
